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Transported by Burma

When venturing to new destinations, many visitors want to be transported – literally and figuratively – often seeking a land untouched or trodden by outsiders. While such destinations are becoming more difficult to find in our increasingly globalized world, my recent visit to Burma this April provided the authentic experience I’d been seeking. As I explored this land over a span of ten days, Southeast Asia’s largest country, and perhaps largest enigma, transported me to an Asia of times past, and I was so grateful to witness it. My days were packed with moments I will never forget, from locals welcoming me with curious smiles, to exploring Inle Lake in awe of the Burmese fishermen navigating by me in their one-legged rowing style, to the simple act of replacing my Levi’s with the traditional Burmese longyi for a local dinner; all of these experiences struck a chord with me in their own way. Burma is, as author Rudyard Kipling put it over one hundred years ago, “quite unlike any land you know.”

Novice monks demonstating the proper way to wear their robes

Novice monks demonstating the proper way to wear their robes

Of all the glorious sites I witnessed as I made my way through Yangon, Bagan, Salay, Mandalay, Amarapura, and Nyaung Shwe, the Shwedagon Pagoda defined Burma at its purest. As I sat cross-legged on the cool tile floor, I couldn’t help but surrender to the colorful spectacle that is the Shwedagon Pagoda: the hum of the faithful reciting scriptures of the Buddha; the countless chimes and bells tolling and echoing around me; the sweet scent of jasmine flowers perfuming the air; the glow of layers upon layers of gold, the dazzling jewels covering every corner; and the twitter of birds swirling around me. Today was the first day of the Burmese New Year, Thingyan, which, for me, meant a unique opportunity to witness procession after procession of young gentleman being ordained as novice monks. Adorned by their superiors with elaborate head dresses and intricately decorated thanaka paste, the soon-to-be monks were guided to the various stations around the pagoda as they welcomed their new fate, their families beaming with joy alongside them. As the sun’s rays set in the hills beyond us, candles and lamps replaced them, illuminating the now glowing stupa to create an entirely new ambiance. As the crescent moon above signaled it was probably time to go and we descended the gilded steps into the Burmese night, my guide, Win, stopped me in my tracks and exclaimed, “You’ve broken the record! I’ve never had anyone stay at Shwedagon for more than three hours – you’ve stayed almost five!” I could have stayed all night. Those magical hours spent exploring the serene oasis in the heart of bustling Yangon will remain with me long after my photos have faded.

The Shwedagon Pagoda defined Burma at its purest

The Shwedagon Pagoda defined Burma at its purest

As I continued on my journey, a quick flight brought me to another of Burma’s breathtaking sights – the ancient city of Bagan. Across the rolling plains of central Burma some 4,000 temples, monasteries and stupas lie in varying states of ruin, a testament to the grandeur of the Kingdom of Bagan’s golden age some 900 years ago. Not only was I able to climb to the top of these nearly millennia-old structures, but my guide granted me special access to some of the most stunning temples and monasteries that are normally locked to the average visitor. While exploring these often overlooked temples we came across brilliantly painted murals depicting the life of the Buddha, freshly shed viper skins and cooing owls! The highlight of my visit? Peeking around the corners of the temples by flashlight as the Burmese kings staring back at me from the frescos came to life with my guide Hla Maung’s tales. I had been transported.

Burma transported me to an Asia of times past

Burma transported me to an Asia of times past

Burma provides the ultimate Southeast Asian experience for the adventurous traveler, and Burma Explorer is perfect for first-time visitors. Please feel free to contact me with any questions you may have about taking an Absolute Travel journey to Burma!

-Matt

Vietnam: Brilliantly in Flux

Tucked away under their distinctive conical hats, you rarely see their faces. Virtually every inch of them covered in hopes to keep the unrelenting eastern sun from darkening their skin, giving away their identity as a worker. But elusive glances reveal much, evoking images from centuries ago when women repeated the same tasks, planting each blade of grass in columns as linear and prideful as the pillars of their kingdom — building an empire by hand. Passing field after field almost tricks your sense of time, until you notice her motorbike parked nearby, quickly bringing you back to the present.

This young man welcomes some unusual guests while keeping his mom company as she works in the fields nearby

A young man keeps his family's water buffaloes company as his mom works in the fields nearby

The arduous life of a worker is in many ways what we expected from a communist country, so my mom and I were a bit surprised to see BMWs and plush hotel properties nearly outnumbering water buffaloes and bicycles. After a few days trying to pin down Vietnam’s politics, our Saigon guide summed it up for us: “We’re mixed up”. But despite all of its changes occurring quicker than we could unpack our bags, Vietnam retains that exotic allure that keeps its spot on the top of my list.

Let me explain.

First, the motorbikes. Even the savviest of New Yorkers will be in awe by them; their numbers, the creative uses the Vietnamese find for them, and the their skill when navigating them. I’d argue it’s an art, unimaginable numbers of them weaving in and out of openings we didn’t realize were there until they pass right past us, in a sort of chaotic grace. Not to mention, the term wide-load has been redefined by the Vietnamese. Your buddy ordered a few queen-sized mattresses that need to be in Saigon before rush hour? No problem. Four-hundred eggs need to get to the market by noon? Sure! But what impressed us the most was one man’s successful attempt of balancing a door frame three times his motorbike’s height, his head peaking out the window to find the way. It made me reconsider the moving trucks I have scheduled for my move across town at the end of the month. Maybe I’ll rent a few motorbikes instead…

Motorbikes are the backbone of Vietnam's economy

Motorbikes are a critical component of Vietnam's economy

Another quintessential element of Vietnam – their markets – selling everything from faux Fendi to flip-flops and everything in-between. Visitors quickly pick up that markets are not the chilly supermarkets that we are accustomed to, but a second home for the Vietnamese. Vendors and patrons are not strangers, but lifelong friends; a woman’s extended network of support to pass the time. Queasy stomachs need not apply here, as the food products are not tidily packaged by Mr. Perdue, or packaged at all for that matter. Pig hooves hang freely next to congealed blood, livers, and other unmentionable organs. Frogs caught after last night’s rain try to break free from the plastic baggies that keep them contained. Fish wiggle on the trays provided for them until they are gutted and cleaned as nonchalantly as if their new owner was washing her own hands. Food is on a much more intimate level here, and though it is at times tough to digest, I’d argue visiting the markets is one of the most revealing windows into their wondrous culture.

The markets have everything you need, and don't need!

The markets have everything you need and don't need!

With all of the hype about eating local and getting to know your food, Vietnam could be the poster child for the movement. And did we take advantage of their unique and delightful cuisine! We learned to eat like a local here not only involved slurping down Pho, but it also meant forgoing proper table and chairs for small plastic ones inches off the ground. They may look more like a toddler’s toy stools than seats, but they command a place on the sidewalk just as much as the tourists and vendors they share it with. We also struck gold when straying from the local circuit in Hue and “splurging” for a $20 lunch at six-month-old Hoang Vien. Quietly set in a restored French villa, time stood still as we devoured a divine tasting menu, carefully presented with such beauty and thought that we almost felt bad eating it. But taste buds prevailed, and with tummies filled, we were ready for our next stop: central Vietnam’s charming port town of Hoi An and The Nam Hai.

But when in Vietnam, unforeseen moments present themselves that, invariably, tend to be the most treasured…

A woman gracefully strolled up to our table wearing a traditional Áo dài, her long jet-black hair tightly pulled back in a bun. She introduced herself as Boi Tran, the chef and apparently the cause of all the deliciousness. She was stunning. As a former Christie’s employee, I had to ask about the Sotheby’s bag hanging from her shoulder, an unusual reminder of home. In endearingly broken English, she revealed her other passion: painting. Apparently an exceptional one considering her works of art that color Sotheby’s venerated catalogues. In seconds my mom and I accepted her invitation to visit her garden on Thien An Hill, in the outskirts of Hue. Even The Nam Hai could wait for this!

A perfect afternoon with Boi Tran and the lovely ladies of Huang Vien

A perfect afternoon with Boi Tran and the lovely ladies of Hoang Vien

Her Eden-like grounds were not pruned to perfection – but overwhelmingly beautiful nonetheless. One-hundred year old trees dotted the property, intersected by lily ponds stocked with well-fed chubby goldfish that instinctively seemed to prop their mouths open for seconds as we walked by. Sipping on lemongrass tea straight from her garden, we wandered through the open-air gallery that housed her masterpieces, our host adding to the beauty of the natural surroundings. Boi Tran exuded a goddess air about her, but her paintings brought her back to earth, providing a more intimate glimpse of who she had become after enduring a war-ravaged youth and losing a son during his attempt to save a friend from drowning. But her smile and loveliness assured us she was a survivor despite the challenges of her past, much like the city of Hue itself. As we said goodbye we hoped just an ounce of her exquisiteness had rubbed off on us.

When our car pulled away from her oasis and toward the coast, I felt our serendipitous experience to be, as the Vietnamese say, “the good luck” following us. As my gaze returned to the sea of motorbikes impossibly weaving their way through the hectic streets without incident, I realized there must be some truth to their superstitions. But whatever it was that graced us – from our beginnings in Hanoi to our final days in Saigon – we were grateful.

- Katie

Another Side of Iran

Ken’s heart was pounding as he ventured off on his own through the foothills of Iran’s dramatic mountainside, no one else in sight, gazing at the Saint Stephanos Monastery from above. It wasn’t the altitude or the solitude that had his heart beating, but the adrenaline rush from the same journey Achaemenians had taken more than 2,000 years ago, long before the Monastery was built in the 14th century. Ken Fish, Absolute Travel President, was in the middle of his fourth trip to Iran.

St. Stephanos Monastery, one of many of Iran's UNESCO World Heritage sites

Ken's view of the St. Stephanos Monastery

“Many travelers want to witness a country before other people get there, and for visitors to Iran, they will see a virtually unspoiled ancient civilization with an unwavering and incredibly compelling cultural identity, which is only enhanced by Iranian people today.” So much so, that Ken believes visiting Iran is unlike being a guest in any other country; quite an endorsement considering the notches on his travel belt. “Hospitality must run through Persian blood… I am humbled by how warmly received I am as an American.”

On the road -- not what you picture when you think of Iran

On the road -- not what you picture when you think of Iran

Understandably, it is a challenge to look beyond the image of Iran as portrayed in current world events, but Ken speaks of hills carpeted in wildflowers; a well of UNESCO World Heritage sites that could keep any historian busy for weeks (ten official sites and almost sixty on the tentative list); and culinary traditions and styles distinctive of the region, particularly their use of sunshine-grown vegetables and herbs. But what carried the spirit of Ken’s visit was the sincerity of the local people. A photograph (below) taken during a spontaneous moment with university students in Tabriz captured the students’ endearing curiosity about their western visitor. “I will keep that moment with me just as much, if not more, than the students.”

Getting the rock star treatment in Tabriz

Getting the rock star treatment in Tabriz

Accompanied by Taghi Aghaei, who after eleven years is not only a business associate but also a dear friend, their travels focused on the northwestern Azerbaijan province, known for its arresting natural beauty. Along the way, it seemed the Persians were just as eager to explore their homeland as Ken was – whether picnicking alongside the windy roads, discovering holy sites, or just relaxing and enjoying themselves – their pride and love of Iran stood out from the scenery.

Iranians enjoying their day off

Iranians enjoying their day off!

And there was never a loss of sites to see. Kandovan’s rock dwellings were not relics of the past, but still home to many – in keeping with the timeless soul of the region. Armenian monasteries still dot the mountains surrounding the Aras River on the border with Azerbaijan, and speak to both Iran’s cultural and geographic breadth. And structures like the Dome of Soltanieh only cemented thoughts of how much talent and tenacity, over the centuries and today, have been invested to make Iran what it has become.

Kandovan outside of Tabriz, people have been living in these rocks for centuries

Kandovan outside of Tabriz, people have been living in these rocks for centuries

Now is the time to visit Iran and see its many other sides – Persians living their day to day lives with passion and open hearts, fiercely proud of their home and happily willing to share it with you. Our Highlights of Persia journey is perfect for first-time visitors; please contact us for more details on this trip or to discuss a customized itinerary with one of our travel specialists. And for those who would like to chat with Ken, he is happy to speak with you personally about his Iran experience!

Find more of Ken’s images of Iran, please check out our Facebook page.

Still Savoring Sri Lanka

Too often overlooked, Sri Lanka is slowly putting itself back on the map with each visitor that is charmed by its people, history, landscape, wildlife, and wonder. This small island off the southern coast of India is picking up the pieces from the 2004 Tsunami and a long civil war – both of which have kept visitors at bay – but not for long! After my recent visit in May, I can confidently say that my time in Sri Lanka is my most cherished travel experience to date!

Our tea tour brought the hills to life

Our tea plantation tour brought the hills to life

I began my journey with a four hour drive from Colombo bringing me to the Heritance Kandalama. Perched on a mountainside, this eco-friendly hotel’s location and exposed rock interior made me feel like I was in a secret hideaway within the mountain itself! I found it was the perfect launching pad to experience local excursions such as an elephant ride through the surrounding jungle and an action-packed excursion to Sigiriya. The 1,002 steps to the top of Sigiriya’s 5th century rock fortress offered sweeping views of the surrounding countryside – I promise the views are well worth the sweat and guaranteed sore muscles!

We continued to the cultural capital of Kandy, where shopaholics (including myself!) delighted in the selection of precious gems, particularly sapphires. We journeyed on through a maze of rolling green hills teeming with tea trees and dotted with tea pickers until we arrived at the absolutely stunning Ceylon Tea Trails in Hatton’s hill country. Each of the four bungalow sanctuaries is equipped with a private butler, chef, and a magnificent staff that make you feel at home. My tour of a local tea factory led by a tea planter (included for all visitors) truly brought the hills to life. Other activities in the region include bike and walking trails, rafting, and for the more active, a trek to Adams Peak, regarded as the holiest mountain in Sri Lanka. But despite all of the exciting excursions, what I will remember the most was high tea at my bungalow (Norwood), complete with a silver platter of delicious scones covered in jam and cream, cakes, petite sandwiches, and of course plenty of tea! Ceylon Tea Trails should be included on everyone’s Sri Lanka itinerary!

As I neared the final days of my visit, I stayed at both the Amanwella in Tangalle followed by the Amangalla in Galle –  both properties are spectacular in their own way which makes for a perfect combination. The Amanwella is a chic, modern retreat located on one of the worlds most unspoiled beaches.

Stilt fishing is a tradition native to Sri Lanka

Stilt fishing is a tradition native to Sri Lanka

Its open design blends inside and outside, allowing the ocean breeze to sweep across you wherever you may be. Just a 2.5 hour drive brings you to the charming Amangalla, a historic landmark located within the heart of the Galle fort. The Dutch Colonial interior brings you back in time and sets the mood for your entire experience. Another plus to the Amangalla? Complimentary use of their hydrotherapy spa room complete with a sauna, steam room, warm bath, and cold bath. The hotel also offers programs in Ayurveda and offers daily complimentary yoga classes; a true escape for the mind, body, and soul.

And for wildlife lovers, Sri Lanka offers a wide-range of conservation efforts (elephants and cheetahs to name a couple) but my time at the Turtle Conservation Project in Rekawa hit home with me. They play a major role in protecting five of the world’s seven species of marine turtles and I even had the opportunity to hold a sea turtle, hatched just the day before!

Sri Lanka will undoubtedly touch your heart and open your mind as it did mine. Contact me for more details on a customized trip to Sri Lanka!



Absolute Travel is a tour operator specializing in privately guided trips throughout Asia, Africa, South America and the South Pacific. Since 1989, Absolute Travel has been creating customized journeys to suit the schedule, budget and interests of adventurous travelers who want private tour guides during the day and luxury hotels at night. Our destination experts have unparalleled knowledge on the countries in our portfolio and can help you design the trip of your dreams. From luxury honeymoons or family trips, active adventures or culinary journeys, Absolute Travel can design a once-in-a-lifetime experience for you. To learn more about our private tours, click on any of the country links below:  

 

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