ABSOLUTE TRAVEL - Private Luxury Travel

Transported by Burma

Katie — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 20:50:44 +0000

When venturing to new destinations, many visitors want to be transported – literally and figuratively – often seeking a land untouched or trodden by outsiders. While such destinations are becoming more difficult to find in our increasingly globalized world, my recent visit to Burma this April provided the authentic experience I’d been seeking. As I explored this land over a span of ten days, Southeast Asia’s largest country, and perhaps largest enigma, transported me to an Asia of times past, and I was so grateful to witness it. My days were packed with moments I will never forget, from locals welcoming me with curious smiles, to exploring Inle Lake in awe of the Burmese fishermen navigating by me in their one-legged rowing style, to the simple act of replacing my Levi’s with the traditional Burmese longyi for a local dinner; all of these experiences struck a chord with me in their own way. Burma is, as author Rudyard Kipling put it over one hundred years ago, “quite unlike any land you know.”

Novice monks demonstating the proper way to wear their robes

Of all the glorious sites I witnessed as I made my way through Yangon, Bagan, Salay, Mandalay, Amarapura, and Nyaung Shwe, the Shwedagon Pagoda defined Burma at its purest. As I sat cross-legged on the cool tile floor, I couldn’t help but surrender to the colorful spectacle that is the Shwedagon Pagoda: the hum of the faithful reciting scriptures of the Buddha; the countless chimes and bells tolling and echoing around me; the sweet scent of jasmine flowers perfuming the air; the glow of layers upon layers of gold, the dazzling jewels covering every corner; and the twitter of birds swirling around me. Today was the first day of the Burmese New Year, Thingyan, which, for me, meant a unique opportunity to witness procession after procession of young gentleman being ordained as novice monks. Adorned by their superiors with elaborate head dresses and intricately decorated thanaka paste, the soon-to-be monks were guided to the various stations around the pagoda as they welcomed their new fate, their families beaming with joy alongside them. As the sun’s rays set in the hills beyond us, candles and lamps replaced them, illuminating the now glowing stupa to create an entirely new ambiance. As the crescent moon above signaled it was probably time to go and we descended the gilded steps into the Burmese night, my guide, Win, stopped me in my tracks and exclaimed, “You’ve broken the record! I’ve never had anyone stay at Shwedagon for more than three hours – you’ve stayed almost five!” I could have stayed all night. Those magical hours spent exploring the serene oasis in the heart of bustling Yangon will remain with me long after my photos have faded.

The Shwedagon Pagoda defined Burma at its purest

As I continued on my journey, a quick flight brought me to another of Burma’s breathtaking sights – the ancient city of Bagan. Across the rolling plains of central Burma some 4,000 temples, monasteries and stupas lie in varying states of ruin, a testament to the grandeur of the Kingdom of Bagan’s golden age some 900 years ago. Not only was I able to climb to the top of these nearly millennia-old structures, but my guide granted me special access to some of the most stunning temples and monasteries that are normally locked to the average visitor. While exploring these often overlooked temples we came across brilliantly painted murals depicting the life of the Buddha, freshly shed viper skins and cooing owls! The highlight of my visit? Peeking around the corners of the temples by flashlight as the Burmese kings staring back at me from the frescos came to life with my guide Hla Maung’s tales. I had been transported.

Burma transported me to an Asia of times past

Burma provides the ultimate Southeast Asian experience for the adventurous traveler, and Burma Explorer is perfect for first-time visitors. Please feel free to contact me with any questions you may have about taking an Absolute Travel journey to Burma!

-Matt

Vietnam: Brilliantly in Flux

Katie — Thu, 05 Aug 2010 17:46:03 +0000

Tucked away under their distinctive conical hats, you rarely see their faces. Virtually every inch of them covered in hopes to keep the unrelenting eastern sun from darkening their skin, giving away their identity as a worker. But elusive glances reveal much, evoking images from centuries ago when women repeated the same tasks, planting each blade of grass in columns as linear and prideful as the pillars of their kingdom — building an empire by hand. Passing field after field almost tricks your sense of time, until you notice her motorbike parked nearby, quickly bringing you back to the present.

A young man keeps his family's water buffaloes company as his mom works in the fields nearby

The arduous life of a worker is in many ways what we expected from a communist country, so my mom and I were a bit surprised to see BMWs and plush hotel properties nearly outnumbering water buffaloes and bicycles. After a few days trying to pin down Vietnam’s politics, our Saigon guide summed it up for us: “We’re mixed up”. But despite all of its changes occurring quicker than we could unpack our bags, Vietnam retains that exotic allure that keeps its spot on the top of my list.

Let me explain.

First, the motorbikes. Even the savviest of New Yorkers will be in awe by them; their numbers, the creative uses the Vietnamese find for them, and the their skill when navigating them. I’d argue it’s an art, unimaginable numbers of them weaving in and out of openings we didn’t realize were there until they pass right past us, in a sort of chaotic grace. Not to mention, the term wide-load has been redefined by the Vietnamese. Your buddy ordered a few queen-sized mattresses that need to be in Saigon before rush hour? No problem. Four-hundred eggs need to get to the market by noon? Sure! But what impressed us the most was one man’s successful attempt of balancing a door frame three times his motorbike’s height, his head peaking out the window to find the way. It made me reconsider the moving trucks I have scheduled for my move across town at the end of the month. Maybe I’ll rent a few motorbikes instead…

Motorbikes are a critical component of Vietnam's economy

Another quintessential element of Vietnam – their markets – selling everything from faux Fendi to flip-flops and everything in-between. Visitors quickly pick up that markets are not the chilly supermarkets that we are accustomed to, but a second home for the Vietnamese. Vendors and patrons are not strangers, but lifelong friends; a woman’s extended network of support to pass the time. Queasy stomachs need not apply here, as the food products are not tidily packaged by Mr. Perdue, or packaged at all for that matter. Pig hooves hang freely next to congealed blood, livers, and other unmentionable organs. Frogs caught after last night’s rain try to break free from the plastic baggies that keep them contained. Fish wiggle on the trays provided for them until they are gutted and cleaned as nonchalantly as if their new owner was washing her own hands. Food is on a much more intimate level here, and though it is at times tough to digest, I’d argue visiting the markets is one of the most revealing windows into their wondrous culture.

The markets have everything you need and don't need!

With all of the hype about eating local and getting to know your food, Vietnam could be the poster child for the movement. And did we take advantage of their unique and delightful cuisine! We learned to eat like a local here not only involved slurping down Pho, but it also meant forgoing proper table and chairs for small plastic ones inches off the ground. They may look more like a toddler’s toy stools than seats, but they command a place on the sidewalk just as much as the tourists and vendors they share it with. We also struck gold when straying from the local circuit in Hue and “splurging” for a $20 lunch at six-month-old Hoang Vien. Quietly set in a restored French villa, time stood still as we devoured a divine tasting menu, carefully presented with such beauty and thought that we almost felt bad eating it. But taste buds prevailed, and with tummies filled, we were ready for our next stop: central Vietnam’s charming port town of Hoi An and The Nam Hai.

But when in Vietnam, unforeseen moments present themselves that, invariably, tend to be the most treasured…

A woman gracefully strolled up to our table wearing a traditional Áo dài, her long jet-black hair tightly pulled back in a bun. She introduced herself as Boi Tran, the chef and apparently the cause of all the deliciousness. She was stunning. As a former Christie’s employee, I had to ask about the Sotheby’s bag hanging from her shoulder, an unusual reminder of home. In endearingly broken English, she revealed her other passion: painting. Apparently an exceptional one considering her works of art that color Sotheby’s venerated catalogues. In seconds my mom and I accepted her invitation to visit her garden on Thien An Hill, in the outskirts of Hue. Even The Nam Hai could wait for this!

A perfect afternoon with Boi Tran and the lovely ladies of Hoang Vien

Her Eden-like grounds were not pruned to perfection – but overwhelmingly beautiful nonetheless. One-hundred year old trees dotted the property, intersected by lily ponds stocked with well-fed chubby goldfish that instinctively seemed to prop their mouths open for seconds as we walked by. Sipping on lemongrass tea straight from her garden, we wandered through the open-air gallery that housed her masterpieces, our host adding to the beauty of the natural surroundings. Boi Tran exuded a goddess air about her, but her paintings brought her back to earth, providing a more intimate glimpse of who she had become after enduring a war-ravaged youth and losing a son during his attempt to save a friend from drowning. But her smile and loveliness assured us she was a survivor despite the challenges of her past, much like the city of Hue itself. As we said goodbye we hoped just an ounce of her exquisiteness had rubbed off on us.

When our car pulled away from her oasis and toward the coast, I felt our serendipitous experience to be, as the Vietnamese say, “the good luck” following us. As my gaze returned to the sea of motorbikes impossibly weaving their way through the hectic streets without incident, I realized there must be some truth to their superstitions. But whatever it was that graced us – from our beginnings in Hanoi to our final days in Saigon – we were grateful.

- Katie

Another Side of Iran

Katie — Mon, 28 Jun 2010 17:10:15 +0000

Ken’s heart was pounding as he ventured off on his own through the foothills of Iran’s dramatic mountainside, no one else in sight, gazing at the Saint Stephanos Monastery from above. It wasn’t the altitude or the solitude that had his heart beating, but the adrenaline rush from the same journey Achaemenians had taken more than 2,000 years ago, long before the Monastery was built in the 14th century. Ken Fish, Absolute Travel President, was in the middle of his fourth trip to Iran.

Ken's view of the St. Stephanos Monastery

“Many travelers want to witness a country before other people get there, and for visitors to Iran, they will see a virtually unspoiled ancient civilization with an unwavering and incredibly compelling cultural identity, which is only enhanced by Iranian people today.” So much so, that Ken believes visiting Iran is unlike being a guest in any other country; quite an endorsement considering the notches on his travel belt. “Hospitality must run through Persian blood… I am humbled by how warmly received I am as an American.”

On the road -- not what you picture when you think of Iran

Understandably, it is a challenge to look beyond the image of Iran as portrayed in current world events, but Ken speaks of hills carpeted in wildflowers; a well of UNESCO World Heritage sites that could keep any historian busy for weeks (ten official sites and almost sixty on the tentative list); and culinary traditions and styles distinctive of the region, particularly their use of sunshine-grown vegetables and herbs. But what carried the spirit of Ken’s visit was the sincerity of the local people. A photograph (below) taken during a spontaneous moment with university students in Tabriz captured the students’ endearing curiosity about their western visitor. “I will keep that moment with me just as much, if not more, than the students.”

Getting the rock star treatment in Tabriz

Accompanied by Taghi Aghaei, who after eleven years is not only a business associate but also a dear friend, their travels focused on the northwestern Azerbaijan province, known for its arresting natural beauty. Along the way, it seemed the Persians were just as eager to explore their homeland as Ken was – whether picnicking alongside the windy roads, discovering holy sites, or just relaxing and enjoying themselves – their pride and love of Iran stood out from the scenery.

Iranians enjoying their day off!

And there was never a loss of sites to see. Kandovan’s rock dwellings were not relics of the past, but still home to many – in keeping with the timeless soul of the region. Armenian monasteries still dot the mountains surrounding the Aras River on the border with Azerbaijan, and speak to both Iran’s cultural and geographic breadth. And structures like the Dome of Soltanieh only cemented thoughts of how much talent and tenacity, over the centuries and today, have been invested to make Iran what it has become.

Kandovan outside of Tabriz, people have been living in these rocks for centuries

Now is the time to visit Iran and see its many other sides – Persians living their day to day lives with passion and open hearts, fiercely proud of their home and happily willing to share it with you. Our Highlights of Persia journey is perfect for first-time visitors; please contact us for more details on this trip or to discuss a customized itinerary with one of our travel specialists. And for those who would like to chat with Ken, he is happy to speak with you personally about his Iran experience!

Find more of Ken’s images of Iran, please check out our Facebook page.

Still Savoring Sri Lanka

Jessica — Wed, 02 Jun 2010 19:09:22 +0000

Too often overlooked, Sri Lanka is slowly putting itself back on the map with each visitor that is charmed by its people, history, landscape, wildlife, and wonder. This small island off the southern coast of India is picking up the pieces from the 2004 Tsunami and a long civil war – both of which have kept visitors at bay – but not for long! After my recent visit in May, I can confidently say that my time in Sri Lanka is my most cherished travel experience to date!

Our tea plantation tour brought the hills to life

I began my journey with a four hour drive from Colombo bringing me to the Heritance Kandalama. Perched on a mountainside, this eco-friendly hotel’s location and exposed rock interior made me feel like I was in a secret hideaway within the mountain itself! I found it was the perfect launching pad to experience local excursions such as an elephant ride through the surrounding jungle and an action-packed excursion to Sigiriya. The 1,002 steps to the top of Sigiriya’s 5th century rock fortress offered sweeping views of the surrounding countryside – I promise the views are well worth the sweat and guaranteed sore muscles!

We continued to the cultural capital of Kandy, where shopaholics (including myself!) delighted in the selection of precious gems, particularly sapphires. We journeyed on through a maze of rolling green hills teeming with tea trees and dotted with tea pickers until we arrived at the absolutely stunning Ceylon Tea Trails in Hatton’s hill country. Each of the four bungalow sanctuaries is equipped with a private butler, chef, and a magnificent staff that make you feel at home. My tour of a local tea factory led by a tea planter (included for all visitors) truly brought the hills to life. Other activities in the region include bike and walking trails, rafting, and for the more active, a trek to Adams Peak, regarded as the holiest mountain in Sri Lanka. But despite all of the exciting excursions, what I will remember the most was high tea at my bungalow (Norwood), complete with a silver platter of delicious scones covered in jam and cream, cakes, petite sandwiches, and of course plenty of tea! Ceylon Tea Trails should be included on everyone’s Sri Lanka itinerary!

As I neared the final days of my visit, I stayed at both the Amanwella in Tangalle followed by the Amangalla in Galle – both properties are spectacular in their own way which makes for a perfect combination. The Amanwella is a chic, modern retreat located on one of the worlds most unspoiled beaches.

Stilt fishing is a tradition native to Sri Lanka

Its open design blends inside and outside, allowing the ocean breeze to sweep across you wherever you may be. Just a 2.5 hour drive brings you to the charming Amangalla, a historic landmark located within the heart of the Galle fort. The Dutch Colonial interior brings you back in time and sets the mood for your entire experience. Another plus to the Amangalla? Complimentary use of their hydrotherapy spa room complete with a sauna, steam room, warm bath, and cold bath. The hotel also offers programs in Ayurveda and offers daily complimentary yoga classes; a true escape for the mind, body, and soul.

And for wildlife lovers, Sri Lanka offers a wide-range of conservation efforts (elephants and cheetahs to name a couple) but my time at the Turtle Conservation Project in Rekawa hit home with me. They play a major role in protecting five of the world’s seven species of marine turtles and I even had the opportunity to hold a sea turtle, hatched just the day before!

Sri Lanka will undoubtedly touch your heart and open your mind as it did mine. Contact me for more details on a customized trip to Sri Lanka!

Hold a Panda, Behold the Buddha – a special day out from Chengdu!

Lisa — Wed, 19 May 2010 15:22:54 +0000

After traveling throughout China while living in Beijing for eight years, followed by countless return trips to China over 13 years with Absolute Travel, Lisa Sun is firmly established as an expert on all the must-see spots and hidden gems in China.

During her most recent visit in April, Lisa revisited old highlights, but found her daytrip outside of Chengdu, Sichuan to the Ya’an Bifengxia Panda Base and Research Center followed by a visit to the Giant Buddha of Leshan as the unexpected stand-outs of the trip. The word “giant” is all that the two sites share, but the excursion to visit the pandas and the Buddha makes for a dynamic day excursion from Chengdu.

Native to China and sadly one of the most endangered species on the planet, the Giant Panda remains a national treasure.

Lunchtime with Lisa!

Since the 2008 Sichuan earthquake which closed the well known Wolong Giant Panda Reserve Center, Bifengxia (pronounced Bee-fung-sha) Panda Base, at 2.5 hours from Chengdu, has become the place to observe pandas in their natural habitat. Best viewed in the morning when pandas are most active (as they fill up on roughly 30 pounds of bamboo a day and tend to nap through the afternoons), visitors to Bifengxia have the rare opportunity to witness pandas in action. Visitors won’t want to miss watching young panda cubs in “kindergarten” where youngsters play on slides, swings, and romp around like their human counterparts! For those of you who can’t get enough of them, Absolute Travel can arrange an opportunity to feed bamboo to a hungry panda - or even better yet: hold a young panda as if it was your very own! But there’s a catch to interacting up close with the pandas: to ensure they are protected and remain healthy, one must wear a uniform similar to a gas station attendant’s, and complete a required health form (which we can assist with)… but trust us, it’s worth it.

After a panda-packed morning, continue for a 1.5 hour drive to the world’s largest stone-cut Buddha, and arguably the most impressive: the Giant Buddha of Leshan. Chiseled from a cliff during the Tang Dynasty on the confluence of the Minjiang, Qingyijiang, and Dadu rivers, it was constructed in the hopes that it would protect boats and passengers from the area’s fatal floods.

The Giant Buddha of Leshan

The Buddha is quite an imposing sight with 23 feet long ears, and each shoulder area large enough to fit a basketball court. Its grandeur not only lies in its magnitude, but in the genius of its craftsmanship: its coiled hair is made of 1,021 individual buns, and its ears serve as a secret drainage systems with hidden gutters and channels to prevent erosion on its serene face. Visitors have the option of viewing the grand Buddha from a viewing platform, where a staircase winds down to its feet for a close up view, however, we recommend taking in the splendid views of the Grand Buddha in its entirety from a boat ride on the river. The “wow” factor is simply amazing!

Our Family Tour of China itinerary can easily be customized to meet the Giant Pandas and observe the Giant Buddha of Leshan as a day excursion from Chengdu. Contact us for more details on this trip or to discuss a customized itinerary to China with our travel specialists.

* Special note: arranging a private session to hold a panda is subject to the mood of the pandas on the day of your visit and can not be guaranteed.

Barefoot Elegance Awaits on Bahia’s Pristine Cacoa Coast

Katie — Wed, 12 May 2010 20:21:15 +0000

While most visitors to Brazil put sexy Rio, the historically rich Salvador, and the natural beauty of Iguassu Falls on their short list, we suggest adding a visit to the exquisite Txai Resort on Bahia’s undeveloped Cacoa coast to make your list complete.

Set amongst coconut groves and the Atlantic rainforest, this stylish eco-resort is arguably one of Brazil’s finest properties. Txai (pronounced chai) is a blend of barefoot luxury and chic sophistication and evokes complete relaxation: individually thatched bungalows are positioned with gorgeous seaside views and hidden amongst coconut groves for total exclusivity; pristine beaches await you just a stone’s throw away; six heavenly pools dot the property standing by for a spontaneous soak; and the Shamash Healing (Spa)ce sits perched on a nearby hill ready to enhance your state of well-being.

For those seeking adventure, Txai’s location proves an excellent launching point to discover the savage beauty of the outdoors. Daily excursions include beach and rainforest hikes, discovering local waterfalls, horseback riding, river rafting, and surfing the refreshing waves. To add some local flavor, the small town of Itacaré is developing slowly, allowing it to keep its original charm and colorful cultural ways. Just twenty minutes down the road, a visit offers ample photographic and shopping opportunities.

A rejuvenated state of well-being awaits you just one hour from Ilheus airport. Please contact our South America specialist, Brooke Garnett, to discuss a customized itinerary that includes Brazil and the Txai Resort.

Back from Burma: The Situation Firsthand

Katie — Thu, 29 Apr 2010 14:31:21 +0000

Monks go about their day in Bagan

As I continued along my Southeast Asia circuit, Burma also made headlines.

While celebrating the Thingyan water festival for the Burmese new year last week, a bombing took place in the former capital of Yangon (Rangoon), killing and injuring several people. This was an isolated incident and tourists were not the target of this attack. There is not currently widespread unrest or protesting in Burma and Absolute Travel operations countrywide remain entirely unaffected. Throughout my travels across Yangon, Bagan, Mandalay and Inle Lake, my main worry was having a bucket of ice-cold water poured down my back for the festival!

Here at Absolute Travel, we remain in constant communication with our contacts on the ground and we will continue to closely monitor the situation.

Stay tuned: a photo recap of my adventures in Burma and Thailand to come!

-Matt

Just back from Thailand and Burma (Myanmar): Matt’s Inside Scoop

Katie — Tue, 27 Apr 2010 19:39:39 +0000

I am back in New York City after a two-week whirlwind trip through Thailand and Burma (Myanmar). With all that has been going on in the Land of Smiles and the Land of Pagodas over the past few weeks, we understand that there are concerns with travel to the region. Having recently experienced the situation firsthand, I would like to address these situations.

What’s happening in Thailand?

Bangkok is currently the stage for a protest movement that has sadly resulted in several deaths and injuries. This unrest has led to the US State Department issuing a travel alert for Bangkok on April 22nd.

This being said, I expected to arrive to a city in chaos. However, my arrival to Bangkok’s Suvarnabhumi airport and transfer into the city’s notoriously busy streets were smooth and uneventful. On a historical tour of Bangkok’s main attractions, I did not cross paths with a single protester. I continued my journey up north without witnessing any unrest. Whether peeking into caves in Chiang Mai or riding elephants in the Golden Triangle, I was safe and comfortable. This area, along with the southern beach hotspots of Phuket and Ko Samui, have remained calm throughout the disruptions in Bangkok.

Our touring in Bangkok and throughout Thailand has not been affected by the current protests as they are contained in a district of several blocks and can easily be avoided, leaving the majority of the city unaffected. However, rest assured that our Bangkok office will continue to closely monitor the situation and we will provide the most up to date information on any further developments. - Matt

A Very Personal Geography

Katie — Tue, 20 Apr 2010 14:38:12 +0000

Every map tells a story

Whether seeking out our favorite Phở street stalls in Vietnam or polishing our fly-fishing skills on an expedition along New Zealand’s rivers, it is always the journey, not just the distance between two points, that stays with us. Whereas most people pack their Nikon to ensure exceptional moments are not fleeting, Connie Brown is taking keepsakes up a notch. A self-taught cartographer, Connie will hand paint your personal history and, quite literally, map out your life. Commissioned maps range from a gentleman’s cycling adventures through France to charting a client’s catalog of top vineyards and retracing one family’s route to adopt their baby in China.

Unique detailing

This intersection of art, geography and the individual is a beautiful one. Connie brings maps to life at Redstone Studios through personal touches that reflect her clients’ lives and travels including personalized charts and diagrams, ornate borders, cartouches, and biographical insets that truly make the piece one-of-a-kind. See Connie speak about her work at the Gel Conference in New York on April 29-30th.

Absolutely Amantaka: Luang Prabang

Katie — Fri, 02 Apr 2010 16:37:07 +0000

Monks in their morning meal procession

Regarded a UNESCO World Cultural site and considered “the best-preserved city in Southeast Asia,” Luang Prabang has a network of planners and architects that are working hard to keep it that way. Unlike most uncovered gems, developments are occurring very thoughtfully here and we believe one property in particular deserves special recognition: Amantaka.

Keeping with the serene air that Luang Prabang evokes, the Amantaka’s understated elegance fits in seamlessly with its surroundings. Set on a garden estate just south of Mt. Phousi, French colonial buildings that were once a hospital now house the Amantaka’s 24 suites. Although rooms are exceptionally large, Amantaka’s attention to detail is what makes a lasting impression: rooms are redolent with the sweet smell of lemongrass, walkways are gently lit by glowing lanterns after sunset, and the impeccably gracious staff makes guests feel truly welcome.

All of Luang Prabang’s major attractions are within easy walking distance. Striking temples marked by orange-clad monks going about their day and winding streets dotted with charming shops are a leisurely stroll away. And if you would like to venture a bit further, our Wild Beauty of Laos itinerary includes a visit to see the monks in their morning meal procession, a boat ride up the Mekong River to the holy caves of Pak Ou, and an adventurous visit to take a dip in the pools of the Khouangsi Falls. Contact us for more details on this trip or to discuss a customized itinerary that includes Laos and the Amantaka with one of our travel specialists.