Noël Gets Bitten by the Africa Bug

They say Africa changes you forever. I had no idea who they were, nor did I know just how dead on they were, that is, until I experienced it for myself. After years of listening to my parents’ stories of their incredible visits to Kenya, and seeing movies like “Out of Africa”, “The Ghost and The Darkness”, and “I Dreamed of Africa”, there was no question as to where I wanted to spend my honeymoon after my husband, Scott and I got married. Thankfully, Scott is always game for whatever adventure I happen to dream up.

I thought to myself, “If every day is this good, I’m never leaving.”

I thought to myself, “If every day is this good, I’m never leaving.”

The moment our tiny plane touched down in central Kenya’s Laikipia Plateau, I knew our experience would exceed every single one of my lofty expectations. After landing at the airstrip, which was no more than a dirt road, we were greeted by the warmest smile I’ve ever seen belonging to our Samburu guide, Solomon. The transfer to Loisaba Lodge was more akin to an actual game drive, first passing a herd of elephants and later veering off the road to get a better view of a pair of mating lions! Being my first time on safari and the closest I’d ever been to a massive feline (who I was convinced saw me as a welcome meal!), I began to question Solomon’s sanity as he continued to inch closer and closer to the mating couple. He assured me that the last thing on that lion’s mind was jumping into our open vehicle, but my heart beat uncontrollably nonetheless! I thought to myself, “If every day is this good, I’m never leaving.” Every day was better than the last.

Happy Hour

Happy Hour

One of my fondest memories of the Laikipia Plateau was spending a night in Loisaba’s starbed, plopped miles away from the main lodge in the heart of the wilderness overlooking a watering hole. A short staircase is the only “barrier” separating you from the African wildlife. There’s nothing quite like spending a night under the stars in a plush bed heated with warm water bottles, while listening to the howls of a hyena and the rustle of mysterious nocturnal creatures scurrying just below. I slept about an hour that night… the stream of shooting stars and thrill of not knowing what sounds I would hear next made sleep such an afterthought!

There’s nothing quite like spending a night under the African skies

There’s nothing quite like spending a night under the African skies

Next stop, the famed Masai Mara, where the great migration welcomed us in full swing. Animal lovers beware: this is the real deal and not for the faint of heart. I actually had to take a personal moment after witnessing a young wildebeest make its way across the croc-filled Mara River unscathed; that is, until a female lion seized the opportunity for a mid-morning snack. Such is life (and death) in the wilds of the East African bush. All aspects of being in the bush – sights, sounds, smells even – conjure an authentic sense of adventure that I’d imagine can only be appreciated by those who have had the honor of being a part of that world, even for just a few days.

Zebra crossing the Mara River

Zebra crossing the Mara River

Not only is the wildlife so captivating, but the scenic beauty of the African landscapes had us in awe! Very early one morning, we set out for Little Governor’s Camp, the site from which we were to launch high above the treetops in a hot air balloon. A sense of calm fell over me as we floated over the Mara plains bathed in the red, yellow and orange hue of a brilliant African sunrise. It dawned on me that I couldn’t remember the last time I felt so serene, so unrushed, so at peace.

Photographed at sunrise from our hot air balloon ride

Photographed at sunrise from our hot air balloon ride

One of Africa’s many charms is its ability to slow things down. As a New Yorker, it seems that we’re constantly being pressured to adopt new ways of doing things quicker, more efficiently. GO GO GO! Africa is a welcome respite from this way of thinking. It almost feels as though time stands still there. And at that moment I finally understood what they meant. Among other things, Africa gives you the wherewithal to open your eyes, slow down and take it all in, from navigating the picturesque surroundings on seriously bumpy “roads,” to getting to know the people you meet along the way. It seems to put everything in perspective and serves as a reminder of what is important. Though my sudden revelation is a total cliché, I remember feeling like I’d just unearthed some sort of secret formula.

One of Africa's many charms... the ability to slow life down.

One of Africa's many charms... the ability to slow things down.

On our flight back to the States, I realized that I had to find a way to turn my passion for travel into a career. I wanted to give others the opportunity to experience the world in unimaginable ways, to make their dreams a reality. By the time we landed in New York, my anxiety about leaving my years in fashion behind to start anew became so very real, but that calm fell on me once again when I imagined a life of immersing myself in a world of exploration and discovery, and giving that joy to others. So I took the plunge. The rest, as they say, is history.

-Noël

São Paulo’s Social Pulse!

Absolute Traveler Zachary Aarons talks food, art and fashion in the all-too-often overlooked metropolis of Sao Paulo, Brazil.

São Paulo Skyline

São Paulo Skyline

For most of us, Brazil evokes images of sizzling beaches, the uber-chic city of Rio de Janeiro, and the natural wonders of the Pantanal and the Amazon. But when my wife and I started planning for our next vacation back in November we were intrigued by the megalopolis of São Paulo, the commercial center of Brazil.

The minute we arrived, we were greeted by the city’s buzzing energy. What could be perceived by some as overwhelmingly urban, was to us, exciting. After getting accustomed to the insane traffic that nine million cars provides, we were in our groove and our jaunt in this brash cosmopolitan hub began…

First stop: Fasano Hotel in the beautiful Jardim neighborhood. The staff couldn’t have been nicer and our room couldn’t have been more spectacular, complete with a view of the gardens and the skyline. After getting situated, we strolled over to one of the most hyped about restaurants in town, Dalva e Dito, Brazilian superstar chef and irreverent bad boy Alex Atala’s latest project. The restaurant pulled a chic crowd and the food exceeded our lofty expectations. We particularly liked how our view of the kitchen prep and the breadbasket complete with an assortment of hot chili sauce as dips.

After lunch we hit the Rua Oscar Freire, São Paulo’s most famous shopping street, and we tore it up! Shoes and bikinis are all the rage in Brazil and they didn’t disappoint.  We stopped at the flagship Melissa Shoes (loved the crazy graffiti exterior) followed by visits to Havainas, Slama Bikini, local designer Isabela Capeto’s sample sale, and Schutz, where my wife found a nice pair of heels.

After perusing the fashions on Oscar Freire we drove to the bohemian neighborhood of Vila Madalena.  This neighborhood was filled with galleries, restaurants, bars, and boutiques.  We stopped at the boutique Ronaldo Fraga, and then checked out the beautiful galleries Galeria Millan and the art powerhouse Fortes Vilaca. Each gallery showcased excellent work by Brazilian artists.  To top off our day we grabbed a drink at the chic Bar Astor. Astor was decorated like a Keith McNally restaurant, with white subway tiles and young men and women sipping Caipiroskas.  We indulged, and a waitress came over to muddle fruit and make a delicious Caipiroska right in front of us.

It was time for dinner. We traveled to Kosushi, one of the best sushi restaurants in the whole city.  São Paulo is actually home to the largest Japanese population anywhere outside of Japan, and the Japanese have called the city home for over 100 years.  Kosushi was both chic and zen. We filled up on succulent sardines and other small dishes before heading back to the Fasano to catch up on some much needed sleep!

The following morning, my parents joined us and it was off to the races.  We got in the car and drove to eat lunch at one of the city’s fanciest shopping malls, Cidade Jardim, located on the other side of the river in Morumbi.  Native Paulistas frequently shop in malls, and the crowd at Due Cuochi Cucina was very elegant.  The restaurant is located in a beautiful garden on the roof of the mall, with a view of the river.  The food is Northern Italian, with some Brazilian influence.

After lunch, we went gallery hopping including Mendes Wood, Luisa Strina, and Marillia Razuk. For dinner, we went to D.O.M., Alex Atala’s flagship restaurant, arguably the most famous in São Paulo.

The following day we headed to the Parque do Ibirapuera, the city’s central park.  It was a Saturday and the park was packed.  2010 marked the 29th São Paulo Bienal, a bi-annual art exhibition held in a large pavilion in the park.  It is the second oldest biennial in the world, and is very well respected.  The 2010 biennial had a political theme, relating to the fact that art and politics are always inseparable.  The curators chose work from artists worldwide, including Simon Fujiwara, Jonas Mekas, and Ai Weiwei, in addition to Brazilian artists like Efrain Almeida and Flavio de Carvalho.

The Bienal was not the only thing going on in the park that day; we also saw a wonderful Ernesto Neto exhibition at the Museu de Arte Moderna (MAM) and checked out the Oscar Niemeyer designed concert hall, Auditorio Ibirapuera.  We even got to hear a local high school play a samba style version of Madonna’s Holiday.  For lunch that day we went to Kaa, a gigantic mostly outdoor restaurant with a huge green wall and excellent salads.

That evening, we decided to check out the famous Hotel Unique for a drink.  We got there right around sunset and the view from the rooftop pool was spectacular. The scene at the hotel’s Skye Bar was fashionable, and the Caipirinhas were tasty.  After, we went to Arturito for another inspired Brazilian meal.

On our final day we decided to check out the old downtown, a neighborhood filled with history, culture, and architecture.  On our way we went to the São Paulo Museum of Art (MASP), a modernist designed building by Lina Bo Bardi perched atop a large hill.  The museum has an expansive permanent collection, and is not overcrowded.  We then traveled around the old downtown, and visited sites like the municipal market, the old train station, and the Pinacoteca Do Estado, which was a prime example of a good modern renovation to an old structure. 

For lunch, we headed to Mani, arguably the most inventive culinary destination in the city.  Mani has dishes like deconstructed Feijoada, taking a contemporary riff on traditional Brazilian dishes.  We then went to Paralela, an alternative exhibition coinciding with, but not related to, the biennial.  This exhibition had only young Brazilian artists with many good works housed in what looked like an old airplane hangar.  That evening it was unfortunately time to bid goodbye to the city.  We went for an early dinner at Figuera, where we ate steak next to the branches of an 80-year-old fig tree that grows throughout the restaurant.  A very special trip.

In Bali, Green is the New Black

Aside from it being an idyllic place to kick back, there’s another reason to visit Bali: Green School. If you (or your kids!) are not brimming with excitement about the school part, we think you should reconsider. Picture children ranging from pre-kindergarten to 10th grade happily immersed in holistic practices that become status quo. Whether reaping the tasty and intellectual benefits from growing their own organic garden to simply avoiding wasteful plastic bottles, these are kids that truly care about the impact they are making on the environment. Green School redefines learning with a refreshing and effective approach that strives to foster a generation of responsible global citizens through compelling projects and a powerhouse staff.

Not your average classroom!

Not your average classroom!

Honorable, indeed, and Absolute Travel has the inside scoop. Head of Admissions is Ben Macrory, a longtime and much-adored Absolute Travel legend (and three-time Jeopardy champ!) whose position came with the titanic perk of exposing his daughter, Maggie, to a life of eco-conscious living, in paradise no less! After giving our kudos to Ben after his New York Times interview, we couldn’t resist picking his brain about working at the most respectable pioneer in education:

Thousands of visitors from all over the world, including notable names from Sir Richard Branson to Donna Karan to Thomas Friedman, have been impressed and inspired by former jewelry magnate John Hardy’s new project, Green School. Located in lush jungle near Bali’s cultural capital, Ubud, this international school that serves a mix of expatriates and locals is a marvel of sustainable practices in action. Innovative and spectacular open air structures built largely from bamboo have garnered acclaim from the international architecture and design community, and the campus is dotted with organic gardens and experiments in renewable energy projects. Green School has a great website (www.greenschool.org), but one really has to go there for oneself to appreciate the true magic of the place!

We agree! Absolute Travel loves incorporating a visit to the Green School into Bali journeys, particularly family journeys with young children. Another part of the allure for families with children is Green Camp – an out-of-the-classroom adventure providing kids an exciting way to get their hands dirty with the natural world around them.

Practicing the mythical and magical martial art of Mepantigan

Practicing the mythical and magical martial art of Mepantigan

You can expect your kids to engage with a melting pot of children from all corners of the planet, partaking in activities like raft building and exploring for bugs in the jungle. Absolute Travel’s General Manager Leslie Overton, who was just recognized as Conde Nast’s Top Travel Specialist for Family Travel for the fourth year reinforces “Green School is an amazing opportunity for kids to experience what life abroad might be like, without actually moving there! Part camp, part school, part travel experience, it’s not a place to park your kids, it’s a place for your kids to grow.“

Let us know if this sounds up your alley and we will make sure school is in session!

Maggie and Ben enjoy a relaxed Sunday

Maggie and Ben enjoy a lazy Sunday

Upping the Ante in Marrakech

After braving all that is overwhelmingly Moroccan, everyone will agree that nothing compares to a luxurious respite to rejuvenate, which Marrakech has many. But although the exotic city is spilling over with wow-worthy properties, Hôtel & Ryads Naoura Barrière just upped the ante.

Hôtel & Ryads Naoura Barrière, Marrakech

Hôtel & Hotel Ryads Naoura Barrière, Marrakech

After winding through the maze of streets that is Marrakech, when you see the big black door, you’ve arrived.

Just minutes from the iconic Djemma el Fna lies Hôtel & Ryads Naoura Barrière, Marrakech’s latest oasis retreat and arguably one of chicest properties in Morocco. The property’s 85 rooms and suites as well as 26 independent ryads have views of the pool, Atlas Mountains and the old medina bringing you into the action, while being just far away enough to ensure guests a true luxury experience.  The rooms continue to charm guests with their simplistic modern design with subtle Moroccan detailing. Set on five acres, the grounds are immaculate dotted with exotic flowers, palm trees, and refreshing pools.  The Uspa’s traditional Moroccan hammams, state of the art gym, and aquatic center wowed us, but we especially liked the amenities for children. In addition to a built-in babysitting service, the Diwi & Co Club provides a wonderland for kids, activities ranging from cookery to costume designing so you can get your souk shopping in without the guilt!  This property has every detail covered.

As Marrakech’s stylish transformation takes heed with its booming riads, kasbahs and hotel properties, there is no doubt that Hôtel & Ryads Naoura Barrière will make its mark as one of the best.

Beating the Brrrrrr in Bali

It was early winter and like many New Yorkers, I was reluctant to pull out my winter coat. But as the cold weather and dark days began to creep in, I made an escape, and boarded a plane to Bali. Ahhhh. The instant I arrived, I felt the warm energy of this mystical paradise. With the sun shining in my face and my Balinese driver waving excitedly to greet me, I knew this was exactly what I needed to soothe my almost winter woes.

Hello, Bali.

Hello, Bali.

As a first time visitor to Bali, I had heard wonderful things about this small Indonesian Island, but nothing could prepare me for the absolute bliss that is the Bulgari Resort Bali. Located on the southern tip of Bali in the less developed region of Uluwatu, the resort is perched on a cliff towering over the spectacularly beautiful Indian Ocean. No description could bring to life the view you experience as you descend nearly 500 feet by glass elevator to the beach. I had to remind myself several times that I was not dreaming and that this does, in fact, exist!

The view from the glass elevator was, without a doubt, my favorite, but there is no shortage of awe-inspiring vistas from any location within the walls of this architectural masterpiece. The cliff in which the resort was built was hand carved in a “staircase like” pattern to allow each of the 59 villas sweeping views of the ocean below and complete privacy.

Beginning my descent to the beach in the Bulgari's glass elevator!

Beginning my descent to the beach in the Bulgari's glass elevator!

This is an extraordinary place, indeed, built with care. Even before the construction of the resort began, the staff took part in a very special Balinese ceremony, blessing the foundation and offering their gratitude to the Gods and the earth to void any negative energy before altering the land. My butler Ronnie, who has been working for the resort since their doors opened in 2006, told me this story as he effortlessly maneuvered down the winding cobblestone paths that connect each level of the property. As he navigated these small corridors flanked by high stone walls, I felt as though I had been transported to an ancient secret village but with all the modern amenities you could possibly imagine! The amount of detail carved into their traditional Javanese style Spa is astounding and the pre-treatment tamarind and honey tea that they serve ranks extremely high on my “best-teas-I- have-ever-had” list. The Bulgari truly blends the best of Italian luxury and Balinese culture to create a highly unique experience, unlike any I have ever had.

Ubud's breathtaking rice fields

Ubud's breathtaking rice fields

After leaving my paradise on a cliff, I continued my journey to Ubud, located in the center of the country known for its remarkable art work, woodcarvings, cultural dances, jewelry, and all encompassing rice fields. There is this sense of heightened spirituality wherever you go in Bali but the positive energy that flowed from the heart of this Bohemian city was especially tangible. I will never forget my bike ride through Ubud’s local villages…

Unexpected encounters are always the most memorable!

Unexpected encounters are always the most memorable!

With Mount Batur, one of Bali’s active volcanoes, towering in the distance I strapped on my helmet and set off full speed ahead into some of Bali’s oldest and most fascinating villages. We passed endless coffee plantations, waved hello to locals, and stopped many many times to learn about life in the rice fields and soak up our picturesque surroundings. After winding around a corner, we came across two village women who had lived in this small town their entire lives. Our guide translated that one of the ladies was in her eighties and one in her nineties, but neither of them knew their actual ages. It was pretty remarkable to get a glimpse into their world as we made our way through the country side. My day ended with a visit to Elephant Safari Park where I fed a baby elephant sugar cubes. It was a sweet end to a perfect day.

- Jessica